Bagan is famous for its thousands of pagodas dotting the dusty sunbaked landscape, small and large, humble and imposing, maintained and decrepit. Despite the sheer quantity of pagodas, there is no getting pagoda-ed out in Bagan. Each one is a surprise, every one an experience. As we scooted around Bagan on ebikes, bouncing along dirt roads boasting tyre marks pressed into the earth by past intrepid adventurers, I couldn’t help but think of myself as a Lara Croft-esque-type figure, in search of pagodas unexplored and long forgotten. This isn’t a reality, unfortunately, as you’re going to find other tourists and fellow adventurers wherever you venture; but, with that being said, we were never sure what we would find in each temple. Pious followers offering their daily prayers? Hidden narrow staircases leasing up to panoramic rooftops? Cobwebs and bird poop? Local Burmese setting up shop and selling their wares? Only time would tell.

One of my favourite moments in Bagan was waking up pre-dawn, navigating dirt roads in the dark on ebikes with torches in hand, searching for concealed turnoffs. We were the first to arrive at the temple Ta wet hpaya, and it felt slightly eerie to enter an unfamiliar place, sweeping the torchlight over shadows and searching for hidden stairwells that would lead us up to the open rooftop. It’s exactly the kind of thing mums warn you against doing, but after making our way up a narrow staircase, scrambling onto crumbling ledges and then waiting for the daily show that continues to spellbind and captivate hopeless romantics and hard cynics alike…it’s exactly the kind of moment you’ll want to have over and over again.

Times are a’changin’

It might surprise you to know that Bagan is not a UNESCO-listed heritage zone due to reasons pertaining to questionable management practices of the monuments (including the decision to build concrete pagodas on the ruins of the ancient original monuments by Burmese officials back in the 1990s). However, another bid has been put in to have the archaeological zone listed as a UNESCO heritage site, which means that Bagan may very well become UNESCO-listed as early as 2019.

What does this mean, exactly? Well, there will most definitely be stricter rules around how tourists can access the archaeological sites and the activity of ‘temple climbing’ may soon be a thing of the past. Currently, visitors are essentially given free rein to roam around and explore as they wish, and scrambling onto crumbling rooftop to witness an epic sunrise/sunset or two is the favourite pastime of most who venture here. Even when we there at the end of 2017 (yes, yes, I realise we’re in the middle of 2018 now, you don’t need to guilt-trip me), some of the temples that we had read about as being popular sunrise/sunset viewing spots were closed for renovations following damage sustained from the 2016 earthquake, and I suspect that when they do open again they won’t be accessible in quite the same way. While I do think it’s important to preserve monuments of the past, at the same time I can’t help but feel selfish and glad that I was able to indulge my inner adventurer as I scrambled up ancient rooftops in the dark before the crack of dawn, waiting for the world to wake. I don’t mean to romanticise it…but, well, it is one of those moments that I won’t ever forget.

You say pagoda, I say…temple?

First thing’s first, let’s get the semantics down.

Pagoda is the generic term for both a stupa and a temple.

Temples are pagodas that has at least one entrance, so you can enter.

Stupas are pagodas with no entrance, so you can’t enter.

Voila! Easy peasy.

The best pagodas in Bagan (don’t miss them!)

When you’re being presented with a map of all of the pagodas in Bagan, you’ll instantly feel overwhelmed. Where do you even begin? In my opinion, the best way to tackle the pagodas is to ride around and stop at your heart’s content. Nervous about having a lack of a plan? Here are some of the best pagodas in Bagan to get you started.

Ta wet hpaya

This was by far my favourite temple, so much so that we came here twice: once for sunrise and once for sunset. Located past the Sulamani Temple, this temple is often touted as a ‘secret temple’; however, it seems like there are a few people in on the secret (or at least reading the same blogs). Still, Ta wet hpaya is definitely not as crowded as some of the other temples and there was a real feeling of respect and awe as everyone sat perched on the ledges of the rooftop, eagerly waiting for the star (literally) of the show to razzle and dazzle us all.

Bulethi

Bulethi is an impressive stupa to take in from the ground level and even more fun to climb. The stairs are steep and narrow and there will probably be a few times when you’ll be climbing with both hands and feet; however, you’ll be duly rewarded once you reach the top.

Oak kyaung gyi monastery

Oak kyaung gyi is a popular place to watch the sunset with its flat open rooftop, so you’ll need to arrive early to stake out a prime viewing spot. Despite its popularity, its location in the middle of a field does make it feel more secluded than some of the other temples.

Across the road from Law ka ou shaung

Law ka ou shaun is another popular spot for sunset viewing, but I was more taken with the other smaller stupas (see photo below) surrounding it which afford the same fantastic views without the masses of people.

Other temples

• Taung Guni (south): this was the first temple from which we watched the sunset and it was crowded – I’m talking, tour buses lined up along the road. We were also late to arrive so all of the prime positions were already taken. The view was exceptional but I much preferred the other quieter temples. Taung Guni (north) is also located next-door, but it was closed for repairs when we were there.
• Dhammayangyi: as the largest temple complex in Bagan, the Dhammayangyi structure dominates the skyline. Its architecture is impressive, and I loved the intricate brickwork of the entryways and windows.
• Sulamani: another large and imposing temple, Sulamani also boasts magnificent frescoes.
• Pyathadar: this temple is known for its open entrance where a large Buddha statue is visible from the outside. It used to be a popular spot for watching sunrise as the hot air balloons get quite close; however, the rooftop was closed off when we were there.
• Dhammayazika: is a 5-sided temple, located near New Bagan, where visitors can walk around the perimeter. Temple 863 (not sure if this is its actual name, but that’s what it’s called on Google Maps) next-door is a popular sunrise viewing spot.

Tips

• Get to your chosen pagoda early if you’re looking to secure a good viewing spot for sunset or sunrise – give yourself at least an hour before at the very least if you’re heading to a popular spot.
• Start your pagoda-hopping early because it gets hot during the day, making the middle of the day the perfect time to fit in a siesta/pool time.
• Be aware that some temples are closed for repairs following the damage done by the 2016 earthquake.
• Bring a torch in the morning when you’re riding around in the dark and to navigate through dark temples.
• Dress respectfully when visiting pagodas and keep your shoulders and legs covered.
• Beware of scams, particularly in the larger temples. On our first day, as we rode into Shwezigon Pagoda, a person waved us into a parking bay and immediately brought us into the market hall where we were given brooches as ‘gifts’, told to take off our shoes and to come back to buy a souvenir once we had finished looking at the temple. This all literally happened within a few minutes and we didn’t think anything of it until we came back out and were essentially forced to sit down and buy trinkets to get our shoes back. It’s all part of the experience, I suppose, but just be aware!
• Most importantly, enjoy the experience and see as many pagodas as you can – happy adventuring!

YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY…

Koyasan: an overnight stay in a Japanese temple

Are you a curious wayfarer too? Why not follow Curated by Cammi’s adventures on Instagram!

LIKE THIS POST? PIN IT FOR LATER!

The post The best pagodas in Bagan (to indulge your inner adventurer) appeared first on curated by cammi.

Motivation is a crucial element when it comes to blogging, and I’ve been seeing bloggers that I’ve followed for years dip in their motivation levels and even pursue other interests outside of their blogs. I can’t compare myself to these bloggers, as I don’t blog for a living and I don’t rely on it as a primary source of income; however, I can imagine that the feelings of guilt over a lack of productivity and the inevitable comparisons made against the plethora of blogs in existence would be similar – whether your blog is your business or your hobby.

I hate doing things in such a half-assed manner, for a lack of a better term, and I wanted to start off the year with a firm idea as to how I was going to approach my blog this year – or if I should even have a blog at all. The following is a list of questions that I mulled over in determining the future of Curated by Cammi. (*cue dramatic music*)

What do I enjoy about blogging?

Surprise, surprise, for me writing is by far the most enjoyable aspect of running a blog. I love having a platform where I can lay my thoughts on a platter and share my recommendations for different travel destinations. There have even been instances when strangers have reached out to express how they have connected with a particular post, or wanted advice, particularly in relation to solo travelling while in a relationship. It’s exhilarating to know that reflecting on my own experiences has helped someone else in their own situation, if only in a minor capacity.

That being said, writing can also be the most difficult part of blogging for various reasons, from merely finding the time to write to, more importantly, finding the right words to convey what I want to say. Travel writing is challenging for me, and I realise how frequently I engage in lazy writing by immediately resorting to cheesy clichés and outdated idioms. I often feel that I am doing a disservice to the countries I am writing about because, yes, every country is one of contrasts, full of smiling locals and a buzzing street food scene – maybe even throw a snow-capped mountain in for good measure – but what makes its character unique? What is the underlying essence of the city/country/experience? If I invested time and energy in distilling all of these questions, I’d likely never post anything.

What aspects don’t I like about blogging?

Let me be frank: blogging is hard work, and I have the utmost respect for people who blog as a full-time gig. It’s not just a matter of churning out some words, slapping in a few photos and then hitting the ‘publish’ button. If only. There are also the ‘extras’: selecting and editing photos, organising mini photoshoots to get the right shots, SEO and back-end stuff, keeping all of your social media accounts up to date and more! As a hobbyist, I don’t do half of these things, nor do I even do a tenth of what bloggers have to do to sustain a full-time blog.

Why do I bother with any of these ‘extras’ at all? I suppose when I started Curated by Cammi I wanted, at least originally, to put in as much effort as I could to make it a legitimate blog. It makes sense that you would want to spend time on something that you can be proud of and that you want to show off to the world. I suppose this goes back to me not wanting to do things in a ‘half-assed’ manner, which is, unfortunately, how I’ve come to approach this blog anyway.

It’s also ironic that this blog is called ‘Curated by Cammi’ because I do feel that the world has become just a little too curated for my liking. Whereas blogs used to be a platform for regular people to voice their thoughts and opinions, they’ve now turned into viable businesses, which means that there are now financial targets to reach and clients to serve deliverables to. Whereas people used to start blogs as personal endeavours, people now start blogs specifically to earn money. While there is nothing inherently wrong with this – if your blog is your business, then you should focus on making mullah, right? – it has been disappointing to see so many blogs predominately delivering sponsored content, making them seem more like ad spaces than a place to genuinely share and connect with others.

There is a pervasive homogeneity and lack of diversity in the blogosphere, demonstrated through the perfectly curated IG feeds with carefully arranged cookie-cutter picture-perfect photos that showcase the same poses being struck against striking landscapes by insanely gorgeous women and hunky men wearing the same fashion brands – it seems to be a prerequisite for every blogger/influencer to wear Mister Zimi, Faithfull, Spell and Cluse – accompanied by the same motivational captions convincing you to ditch your day job and travel the world just as they are. Now, I too am guilty of these things. I mean, who doesn’t love a photo of oneself from behind, looking poignantly out into the abyss? People take these shots and share these inspirational captions because people hungrily lap them up – me included.

However, having the ability to have this ‘voice’ ultimately comes from a place of privilege, and I can’t help but think that it might be damaging for some people to be constantly bombarded with these messages advocating that a ‘better’ life is out there should you only have the courage to uproot your life and give it a go – especially if someone doesn’t have the means nor the resources to attain this lifestyle. It is also dangerous to present an overly saturated highlights reel of your life, which is something that we are all guilty of, but which has the potential to result in even more dire consequences in this age of social media and oversharing. It is encouraging, however, to see many bloggers offering a glimpse into the other side of their ‘fairytale’ lives, the side that is filled with doubt, insecurities, loss and pain – emotions that don’t merely disappear just because you happen to lead an unconventional life.

Is blogging a priority?

The simple answer to this is ‘no’, and most likely it will never be a priority. As a freelance editor/proofreader, I’m usually dealing with manuscripts and words during the day; so in the evenings, I don’t really feel like dealing with more words unless it involves curling up with a good book. To be honest, I just don’t want to keep looking at a screen, and I am making it a point to reduce screen time this year.

Also, even though the majority of 2017 was spent overseas, I spent even less time working on my blog even though there was a lot to share. What I’ve realised is that my love for the act of travelling travel far surpasses my love of travel blogging – and there is absolutely nothing wrong with that.

Am I still passionate about blogging?

I call Curated by Cammi my passion project – but is it really a passion? There has undoubtedly been a lack of passion towards my blog as of late, and it has definitely not been fuelling the fire in my loins. When I first started this blog, I remember wanting to spend every waking minute working on it, wanting to read every post published online about how to create a travel blog. But like any hobby, pastime or venture that is taken on, your interest in it will inevitably ebb and flow, perhaps eventually spluttering to a definitive halt.

As I mentioned before, I love travel and all that it has to offer, but I don’t necessarily feel the same way towards travel blogging. I’ve had travel experiences where I wasn’t able to wholly appreciate the moment because I was so concerned about taking good IG shots and photos for the blog, as well as making mental notes to incorporate into later posts. The fact of the matter is that I’d rather just enjoy the moment for myself.

What is the purpose of Curated by Cammi?

I suppose the crux of the matter lies in the question: what is the point of Curated by Cammi? What do I want it to represent for me? A forum to show off my travel photos? An online diary? A business?

When I started Curated by Cammi, it was because I was inspired by the number of travel blogs out there, predominantly of women who had quit their jobs/lives to travel full-time. I had no intention of treating the blog as a ‘business’ or to become a full-time travel blogger; rather, I wanted to share stories, experiences and thoughts with people, and I wanted to create the kind of inspirational content that I was devouring myself (my faves are Department of Wandering and This Battered Suitcase). Of course, if I could get a few freebie hotel stays here and there, that would be a huge bonus, and of course I was totally open to the idea of being sent to places for free – duh (and still am willing if someone wants to send me to the Maldives).

For a while, I kind of felt like a ‘faux’ or ‘quasi’ blogger. I didn’t want it to be my business and I wasn’t willing to prioritise it, but I wanted opportunities to arise from it. Of course, you need to work religiously and for a long time to get the kind of traffic and social media following that will make people want to work with you, which of course you can’t do unless you treat your blog like a business. Therein laid the problem. Nowadays, especially, there is a lot of pressure for blogs to be business ventures, merely because everyone else is doing it. Blogs have become commercialised and every which way you turn there’s a blog post or online course stating: ‘Make $100,000 in 1 month from your blog – just like I did!’ I think it’s important to remember why blogs came into prominence in the first place – as a platform for voices that wouldn’t normally have been heard and not just a potential money-making machine.

What is the future of Curated by Cammi?

I was all about ready to shut down Curated by Cammi and wipe my hands clean – but there was a huge ‘but’ lingering at the back of my mind. But you worked so hard on this. But you created this all from nothing. But it’s your (figurative) baby.

The hubby calls me an ‘all or nothing’ kind of person and thinks my reluctant to continue the blog is because I think it is not up to the standard of other travel blogs. There is truth to this. I didn’t want my blog just to be ‘another blog’, I wanted it to be the best blog I could make it, which hasn’t eventuated because I haven’t put in the required time and effort. He suggested that all I really needed to do was to align myself with the original purpose of the blog, which was to share and connect with others, rather than looking at it from a ‘business’ perspective. If I didn’t post on the blog or social media for 2 months, it wouldn’t matter because I’m not writing posts for anyone other than myself. If I wanted to dedicate a post entirely to snaps from my last holiday, then that was my prerogative. (If there’s one thing I know for certain: I married a wise and very encouraging man.)

So where to from here? Curated by Cammi is staying, but who knows when you’ll hear from me next – one day, one week, one month, one year? It might be a post about travel, a musing about life or an essay on astrophysics – okay, it most likely won’t to be the last one. Whatever the case, I need to remember that Curated by Cammi is a ‘me’ project, and I should dictate when and what I want to write about, without feeling the external pressure to have it be something that it’s not.

If you’ve made it this far, then thank you for hanging around to the very end.

I’ll see you when I see you.

YOU MIGHT ALSO WANT TO CHECK OUT…

• 2017: A year in travel
• Curated by Cammi: Happy 1-year anniversary to me!
• Thoughts on turning 30

The post To blog or not to blog… appeared first on curated by cammi.

Here’s a look back on all of the adventures that were had in 2017.

2017: A year in travel

Rottnest Island

I almost forgot about my first sojourn way back in February, although admittedly I didn’t stray far, as Rottnest Island is only 30 minutes from Perth’s CBD by ferry. Visiting this idyllic island paradise had been high on my list since moving out west, and we finally managed to book accommodation for a weekend on what locals affectionately call ‘Rotto’. If you’re seeking a quick getaway with rest and relaxation high on your agenda, then Rottnest Island delivers in spades. Our days were lazily spent snorkelling in the turquoise waters, riding bikes (no cars are allowed on the island except for the shuttle buses), making friends with the adorable quokkas and soaking in the glorious sunshine (but truth be told, you can do that anywhere in Perth).

RELATED POST:

• How to make the most of a weekend on Rottnest Island
• 100 things to do in Perth

USA (West Coast)

Places visited: Los Angeles, Las Vegas, Grand Canyon 

When one of my besties told me she was planning a 30th birthday bash in Las Vegas, it took me all of two seconds to scream out, ‘TAKE ME!’ What followed was a whirlwind trip to the West Coast of the States involving a couple of days in LA and five days in Las Vegas with a group of six gals: all of us thirty and over, the majority with kids, one of us who had already been to Las Vegas three times and all of us excited to have the full Vegas experience. Las Vegas is just as the movies depict it: excessive and unrestrained, while also being kitsch and tacky—a haven for sinners and winners. It was a trip of firsts from tandem-bike riding to riding a mechanical bull (and, more importantly, staying on it!) to winning big on the casino floor without putting down a single chip! Viva Las Vegas!

RELATED POSTS:

• Skip the Strip: here’s why you should go to Downtown Las Vegas
• Viva Las Vegas: my thoughts on the sin city

Vietnam

Places visited: Hanoi, Bai Tu Long Bay, Phong Nha, Hoi An 

Having my extended family in Hoi An means that I will always have a reason to return to this incredible country. Every time I head back to Hoi An, I am more and more surprised by the changes that have taken place since I had last been there – and each time, I grow to love it more. This time around, we also managed to visit a couple of places in Vietnam that we hadn’t yet explored: Phong Nha and Bai Tu Long Bay (basically Ha Long Bay without as many tourists). Phong Nha was a highlight with its plethora of cave networks to navigate (including Dark Cave where you can take a mud bath), not to mention the day we spent riding around the countryside in a Russian Ural motorbike.

RELATED POSTS:

• Stay: Phong Nha Farmstay in north-central Vietnam
• My Hanoi street food tour with Urban Adventures
• How to spend 24 hours in Hanoi
• Tam Thanh Mural Village: Art for a better community
• The best banh mi in Hoi An
• This is the Vietnam that I know

Cambodia

Places visited: Phnom Penh, Kampot, Sihanoukville

By far, the biggest decision I made last year was to spend 6 months crashing on my brother’s couch in Phnom Penh … by myself. There were several reasons for this – the main one being that the hubby has a job that involves going into an office, whereas, with my freelancing, the world currently serves as my office (well, any place with a good wi-fi connection at least). I knew that I wouldn’t ever be as free as I am now – sans kids, mortgage, 9 to 5 office job – and that I needed to make the most of this opportunity. Expat life was not without its challenges and stark realities, because what is it really than real life in another (more tropical and coconut-laden) setting? Still, I enjoyed being based overseas (surprise, surprise) and let’s be honest: who doesn’t love the South-East Asian lifestyle? Ultimately, I learned a lot about myself, and I know now with certainty that I have the capability and strength to push boundaries, real or imagined, in pursuit of what is significant to me. Perhaps most importantly, though, I’ve realised that there is never a final destination in our journey.

RELATED POSTS:

• A quick guide to Phnom Penh
• Discovering street art in Phnom Penh: Street 93
• 12 things to do in Kampot
  

Thailand

Places visited: Chiang Mai 

I was excited about heading to Chiang Mai due to its reputation for being a freelancing and entrepreneurial hub; so much so that it was the first place that I decided to visit after moving to Phnom Penh. Yet, for whatever reason – and it’s always subjective – Chiang Mai fell short of my expectations in spite of the incredible experiences that I had while there – the day I spent with the majestic elephants at the Elephant Nature Park would have to be my favourite travel experience of 2017. However, nothing beats cheap and cheerful Thai street food (khao soi, when will we meet again?), and the coffee in Chiang Mai was among the best that I tasted in South-East Asia.

RELATED POSTS:

• Visiting the Elephant Nature Park in Chiang Mai
• Chiang Mai: Elephants, khao soi and the best travel story I have ever heard

Laos

Places visited: Luang Prabang

Conversely, Luang Prabang far exceeded my expectations! This quaint and compact town is a visual feast for the eyes, set against a titillating backdrop of mist, mountains and the mighty Mekong. I was particularly taken by the French colonial architecture and it took me forever and a day to get from point A to point B, because I kept stopping to take photos. The pace in Luang Prabang was a a lot slower and it was lovely to be able to ride a bike without fear of being run over by the crazy and chaotic traffic that is characteristic of so many South-East Asian cities. My only regret was not exploring more of the country! Vang Vieng, I have my eye on you.

RELATED POST:

• Luang Prabang, you had me at sabaidee

Malaysia

Places visited: Penang, Langkawi

After 10 long weeks apart, the hubby and I finally reunited in Malaysia for the hubby’s birthday. There were two main reasons why we chose Penang. First: eat street food; and second: see street art. I believe we succeeded on both fronts. After eating ALL OF THE FOOD in Penang and hunting down many of the city’s famous interactive murals, we hopped on a short flight to Langkawi where we were able to burn off the calories by spending the days island hopping on jet skis, chasing waterfalls and parasailing.

RELATED POSTS:

• My top 10 Penang street art murals and where to find them
• Sampling the best of Penang’s food scene with Urban Adventures 

Sri Lanka

Places visited: Colombo, Kandy, Ella

Let me preface this by saying, ‘Go to Sri Lanka if you haven’t already done so’. I knew I would love Sri Lanka before I even stepped foot inside the country, and it would have to be my favourite country that I visited in 2017 (Myanmar is a close runner-up). Here, I spent a leisurely week travelling by train around the hill country region, which is famous for its lush tea plantations and its highland hikes. However, you would need to 3 weeks at the very least to explore the country’s stunning coastline, the ancient monuments and sites of Cultural Triangle and the national wildlife parks. To quote the venerable Arnie: ‘I’ll be back’.

RELATED POSTS:

• Travelling alone in Sri Lanka as a woman: is it safe?
• The Kandy to Ella train journey through Sri Lanka’s hill country

Japan

Places visited: Tokyo

Tokyo is one of my all-time favourite cities, and I couldn’t pass up a chance to return when I heard that Yayoi Kusama was opening up a temporary museum exhibition. From cute cat cafes to tasty Totoro treats, Tokyo has really nailed the kawaii culture and it’s difficult not to get caught up in it all! This time, I went with one of my besties and had an absolute ball despite the persistent rainy days.

RELATED POST:

• Polka dots and pumpkins: visiting the Yayoi Kusama Museum

Myanmar

Places visited: Yangon, Bagan, Inle Lake

I knew exactly where I wanted to spend my 31st birthday – Myanmar. Or more specifically – Bagan. Because you’ve seen those photos of the hot air balloons floating above the pagodas, right? I had actually planned to celebrate my 30th birthday in Myanmar, but when my brother moved to Cambodia I decided to go visit him instead. Thus, Myanmar is another country that has been on my radar for some time. The hubby joined me and we had a fantastic time taking stupa selfies in Yangon, e-biking to all of the pagodas to watch epic sunrises and sunsets in Bagan and visiting the floating villages on Inle Lake. Tourism has been on the rise ever since the country opened itself up, and I suggest you get yourself there sooner rather than later.

What’s in store for 2018?

There is no doubt that life will be a bit more mellow in 2018. We have some domestic trips planned; the first to Brisbane over the Australia Day weekend to check out the Yayoi Kusama exhibition at GOMA; and then a trip down to Margaret River in March to go glamping (thanks to our dear friends) for our 2-year wedding anniversary.

A trip to Europe might be on the cards, but there are so many variables at the moment in terms of general life and where we’ll be, so nothing is concrete as yet. One way or another, I’m sure our greatest adventure is still ahead.

Have a happy 2018, y’all!

YOU MIGHT ALSO WANT TO CHECK OUT…

2016: A year in travel

Are you a curious wayfarer too? Why not follow Curated by Cammi’s adventures on Instagram!

The post 2017: A year in travel appeared first on curated by cammi.

I am writing this during my last week in Phnom Penh. It is surreal to think that I will be boarding a plane on Thursday and returning to Australia.

The last 6 months have been fast and slow in equal measure. At times, it seemed that time was crawling at a snail’s pace; however, now that I am at the tail’s end of my time here in Phnom Penh, I can’t quite believe how quickly the last few months have flown by.

I have so many thoughts and I don’t think I can write (type?) quickly enough to capture all of them to give them a voice; some thoughts are destined never to be immortalised in a blog post or spoken aloud – which says a lot about the emotions we feel, the thoughts we think. Over the past 6 months, in particular, I have realised just how fickle emotions can be, and how dramatically they can change from day to day. If I were to write this post tomorrow, would I be writing the same words? Most likely not, because who knows what I’ll be feeling 1 hour, day, month or year from now?

At around the 4-month mark, I felt ready to go home. I wasn’t sure if there was much else to do in Phnom Penh, or if I had anything else to gain by being here. I dumped all of my thoughts on to the hubby: I wanted to come home but I didn’t want to feel like I had failed. Failed what, exactly? A test, seemingly, that I had set for myself. The hubby listened patiently as always and encouraged me to stay, because he knew I would regret going home early. And he was right. I suppose I knew this too, but it always helps to have someone else confirm what you already know. I also stayed because I had already booked flights to various destinations out of Phnom Penh and I didn’t want to lose my money, so being a cheapskate also encouraged me to stay. And I’m so glad I did. Because after a few weeks, I didn’t have the inclination to cut my sojourn short; in fact, I felt like I could stay longer, because what is 6 months but a blip on the proverbial radar?

Emotions, as useful as they are, are not terribly reliable. If we acted on every emotion that we felt, the world would be a bubbling, frothing mess—well, even more so than it already is. What we feel one day will not necessarily be how we feel the next, which is why it is important to stick things out, and to add some logic and reason to the equation, as unromantic as that can be. I guess what I’m trying to say is that I’m glad I didn’t act on every emotion/feeling I had felt over the course of the last 6 months, otherwise I may have ended up regretting some of my decisions, which defeats the very purpose of my time away – to have no regrets. To have gone and conquered.

Although I’m not entirely sure how much conquering I have done because in all honesty I made a terrible expat. That’s right: I failed as an expat. During my time in Phnom Penh, I remained in a very confined expat bubble and cultivated a life not too dissimilar to my life back home. I didn’t attempt to learn the Khmer language, I didn’t moto or cycle, I didn’t speak to any locals beyond the tuk tuk drivers outside my apartment. I didn’t integrate at all.

I’ve thought about the reasons for this. First, I don’t feel like I ever committed fully to Cambodia. As I knew I would only be there for 6 months, I didn’t quite embrace the city as much as I should have. Add to that the fact that I was away for at least a week every month, and Phnom Penh began to feel like a base more so than a home. This sentiment also extends to people. I have met so many interesting people while in Phnom Penh, a beacon for eccentric characters it seems, but I didn’t put in the time to cultivate any meaningful relationships. A lot of this was due to my mentality of ‘what was the point?’ I would be leaving in 6 months, I was flitting to different countries every few weeks, so why would I put in the emotional energy to build relationships that I knew would end before they really started? I am fully aware that this is a terrible philosophy to adopt and the perfect way to miss out on some worthwhile relationships, but it was how I felt. As unreliable as emotions are, there are times when you have to capitulate. I remember a conversation I had early on with an expat who had been living in Phnom Penh for a few years and wouldn’t befriend anyone staying in Phnom Penh for less than 6 months – because, again: ‘What was the point?’ I get it now, although I come from the opposite side of the spectrum where I knew I wouldn’t be here long term, so there wasn’t an impetus for me to become rooted to anything or anyone.

Second, I think privilege played a part in my failure as an expat, which I’ve touched on before in a previous post. I could afford to take tuk tuks everywhere, so I didn’t need to cycle or moto. I could afford to eat at Western places all the time where the staff know English, so I wasn’t forced to learn the language. My disposable income brought me, or should I say ‘bought me’, privilege which allowed me to live inside a bubble. However, it was eye-opening to live in a place where the poor and rich live in such close confines, where beggars walk up to flashy Lexuses on the street and plead for money. It makes you feel uncomfortable, guilty, helpless and a whole range of other emotions that you need to process, whereby rationalising why you can flippantly spend $30 on a massage but can’t give a street beggar a dollar becomes a daily occurrence. It’s not easy, and I agree with the maxim that ignorance is bliss. Or at least more comfortable. Privilege is fun until you are faced with the harsh reality that unfortunately not everyone in the world has been dealt your lucky hand.

Still, I am incredibly proud of what I have achieved and what I have learned about myself in the last 6 months. I know now with certainty that I have the capability and strength to push boundaries, real or imagined, in pursuit of what is significant to me. Perhaps most importantly, though, I’ve realised that there is never a final destination in our journey. There isn’t a place where perfection is within arm’s reach or where our ideal self resides. We take ourselves on this journey – faults and all – and the greatest lesson, I think, is to accept ourselves for who we are regardless of where we are, who we with and the situation we happen to be in.

So I return home with a whole bag of emotions – excitement, fear, anxiety, eagerness. Knowing that the journey will continue and that I am the same person I was when I left…but also different (insert same same but different joke here). Knowing that I am drawn to faraway places not to escape but in the hope that I will find a better version of myself, but realising now that this is a fool’s errand and that perhaps it is this search in the first instance that is the true test of character. Knowing that there is never an end point and that there will never be a ‘that’s enough’, purely because of the way that I want to live and remember my life by – not as endless days of meeting deadlines and countless to-do lists, but of unparalleled experiences and moments that make me want to throw my hands up in the air and shriek with joy. I recently read a blog post here that seemed to decipher the jumble of thoughts inside my head. Here’s an excerpt:

However, I have a confession to make. I’m scared of commitment — not just to people, how we normally think of it, but commitment to places, to jobs, to contracts of any kind — because I’m scared of boredom. I’m scared to not feel alive while I’m living. ‘Cause I’ve been there before. And I don’t wanna go back.

I am realistic enough to know that mundane moments in life will far outweigh the moments of wonder, but it is this fear of not feeling alive while living that drives me, my decisions and is probably how I ended up at this exact moment in time.

Thanks Phnom Penh for making me feel alive – till our paths collide again.

Cammi x

The post The Phnom Penh files: November/December recap appeared first on curated by cammi.

RELATED POST:

• The Flåm railway: the most scenic train journey in the world?

The Kandy to Ella train journey

In Sri Lanka, trains are not a tourist attraction, they are simply an affordable way for locals to travel from place to place. Indeed, when I told locals that I had come to Sri Lanka for the purpose of taking the train from Kandy to Ella, they seemed surprised that someone would bother coming all that way to do something that probably didn’t seem all that special to them, something that was just another part of everyday life.

I took two separate train journeys: one from Colombo to Kandy (approx. 2.5 hours), and one from Kandy to Ella (approx. 6 hours). Although the Colombo to Kandy train journey only took 2.5 hours, it was incredibly lively as the next carriage was full of locals who spent most of the time singing and dancing and yelling whenever the train went through a dark tunnel. It provided for a fantastic atmosphere and their energy was infectious.

However, it was on my second train ride from Kandy to Ella that I had the most fun. You would think that 6 hours on a train would be more than enough time to spend in locomotion, but I happily spent the entire time gawking out the window—when I wasn’t hanging out of the train, of course.

Rolling tea plantations stretch beyond the horizon, the many shades of green only interrupted by occasional splashes of pastel buildings. Houses line the tracks in an untidy, but fetching, manner, allowing a glimpse into life along the train tracks: women in bright saris tending to their daily errands, men in sarongs walking pensively with hands clasped behind their backs, children playing merrily and waving enthusiastically as the trains roll past.

As the train slowly approached picturesque train stations, reminiscent of days gone by, people waiting on the platforms offered welcoming smiles to the passengers framed in the train windows; those living in the houses next to the stations waved cheerfully from their windows as the train departed, making it feel as if this was a novelty for them as opposed to something that happened each and every day. When trains passed each other on the tracks, arms would reach out from the carriages, trying to connect and interlink hands, if only for a second. The sense of community was palpable.

It’s such an incredible feeling of freedom, and dare-I-say-rebellion, to be able to hang out of the train—something you would never be able to do back home! At least, not without repercussions, and likely a hefty fine. Sometimes it’s fun not to have to adhere to such stringent safety regulations, to be free in the moment.

In the end, it wasn’t so much about the scenery (especially as the mist really set in as the train gradually ascended, making it feel like I had stumbled upon the set of Sleepy Hollow, and also obscuring the views of the plantations) as it was about the feeling of togetherness and emancipation. I loved it and I would do it all over again in a heartbeat.

I’m disappointed with all of my photos from the trip as none of them quite capture the beauty of the scenery and the sense of community due to a combination of my lack of photography skills and my failing camera (my 7-year old SLR doesn’t quite cut the mustard anymore). The photo below of this cute kid I befriended on the train would have to be my favourite shot from the train ride. Check out this blog post for amazing photos of the Kandy to Ella train ride that I wish I could have taken.

Booking tickets for the Kandy to Ella train journey

There are 3 carriage options: 1st class, 2nd class and 3rd class. You can reserve 1st- and 2nd-class tickets in advance. Third-class tickets can only be purchased on the day. There are also some unreserved 1st- and 2nd-class tickets available on the day; however, from what I had read, these can run out quickly, so I didn’t want to risk not getting a ticket.

I opted for 2nd class on both trips. The 1st class carriage is air-conditioned and the windows don’t open, although there is more space. The 2nd-class carriage allows you to open the windows, which is why I opted for this carriage—I was adamant about sticking my head out of that window! Third class has less space and as there is no reserved seating, it is a first come first served basis so if you don’t get a seat, you’ll be in the aisle or doorway (which isn’t a bad thing) for the entire trip. In hindsight, I probably could have done 3rd class in the Colombo to Kandy leg, as it wouldn’t have been too long to stand.

If you are more of a planner like moi and less of a fly-by-the-seat-of-your-pants kind of traveller, then you can reserve your tickets ahead of time through this site here. Make sure to leave plenty of time, as tickets can sell out ahead of time during the busy months. Basically, you need to pay for the ticket through PayPal and then insert the reservation number into the form on the website. Note, that if you are travelling on different days, then you will need two separate transactions, i.e. you will need two reservation numbers. Once you submit the form, a confirmation will be emailed to you within the next few days, which is what you need to show to the reservation counter at the train station.

Obviously, it costs more to reserve a seat in advance, but, even still, train travel is so ridiculously cheap in Sri Lanka.

Tips for train travel

• If you have reserved a ticket, specifically ask for a window seat at the reservation desk.
• Keep your train ticket until you exit the station; inspectors will ask for it when you get off the train.
• Sit on the right side of the train if you are going in the direction of Kandy to Ella. On a clear day, you’ll be able to get a glimpse of Sigiriya.
• Pack snacks and water. At Colombo station, there are a few eateries on the left-hand side of the station if you’re catching an early morning train. There is also a person who occasionally comes past to sell tea and snacks on the train.
• At Kandy Station, passengers hop on the train from both sides, so you can stand on either platform.
• Hang out of the train and enjoy the wind in your hair!

Kandy accommodation

While in Kandy, I stayed at the Viyana Boutique Hotel, a cute guesthouse that was perfectly located on Kandy Lake and an easy walk to the Temple of the Tooth.

Ella accommodation

While in Ella, I stayed at the Ella Heritage, which was just a newly established guesthouse when I was there. While there were a few kinks to iron out, the hospitality of the staff is second to none and there are also some great eateries located nearby. I definitely recommend it if you’re after a low-key stay.

YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY…

Travelling alone in Sri Lanka as a woman: is it safe?

Are you a curious wayfarer too? Why not follow Curated by Cammi’s adventures on Instagram!

LIKE THIS POST? PIN IT FOR LATER!

The post The Kandy to Ella train journey through Sri Lanka’s hill country appeared first on curated by cammi.

In last month’s recap, I touched on how familiar ‘Phnom Penh’ had become. This month, I want to touch on habit, and how we are all ultimately creatures of habit. Suffice to say, my life has not changed that much since moving across to the humidity bubble that is South-East Asia. I still freelance, my main priority is still getting my daily caffeine fix, and I still feel like I never have enough time. Aside from the fact that I definitely indulge in more massages (oh, I’m going to miss these massages), I am still very much leading the life that I led back at home.

There is always an ‘ideal’ version of who we want to be, who we aspire to be, if only the right conditions presented themselves: an ideal ‘you’ that could emerge if only you had a certain job, or if you made x amount of dollars, or if you looked a certain way. At home, I was spending a lot of time working, and thinking about projects and working out how to grow my business, and the cogs in my brain wouldn’t stop turning. I didn’t give myself time to relax, and there was always a pervasive feeling of guilt when I did relax because I felt that I could be doing something more productive. Initially, I wanted to spend my time in South-East Asia relaxing and, more importantly, relaxing without feeling guilty. I wanted to spend more time reading and writing for myself, and pursuing creative pursuits such as this blog. But this hasn’t eventuated, and funnily enough I’m spending less time on my blog even though I’m doing more travelling.

When I first arrived in Phnom Penh, I made an effort to go out, meet people, attend events, and to get to know the city–as you do when you’re met with new stimuli. But as the months passed by, I’ve reverted to my usual self: a bit of a workaholic at times, happy to hermit at home, and always thinking about or planning something. In spite of my new surroundings, the cogs in my brain have kept turning. I had hoped to become more balanced, to find the time to stop and smell the roses, but maybe the truth of the matter is that I’m not that way inclined. I’ve always been serious about work, regardless of whether I was working for the big (wo)man or for myself; and I’ve always been introverted and happy to flutter about solo.

Once the novelty of change, and perhaps potential for change, that is brought about by an alternative setting wears off, habits return in full force because at the end of the day we are who we are. There is no ‘ideal’ you that will magically appear should you get that position at work, make x amount of dollars or look a certain way. And certainly there is no ‘ideal’ you that will materialise because you’ve landed in a rather than b, or vice versa.

The fact of the matter is that you take you with you.

I’ve been wondering, then, why I am so attracted to travel and being overseas and where this insatiable urge to be ‘somewhere else’ stems from? Why are there people who can’t seem to pin themselves down, whether physically or mentally, and others who will happily do so without any qualms? I saw this desire as an incompleteness of my self, my identity, but if we are really just creatures of habit, then this reasoning doesn’t stand. Another reason could be escape, but what could I possibly be escaping from…other than myself? In that case, the argument is still void as we’ve established that we bring ourselves wherever we go.

I wonder if it comes down to possibility. It’s easy to feel stymied or uninspired by everyday life–the known–to forget about potential in familiar surroundings and convince ourselves that what we are really seeking lies somewhere else in a distant and foreign land. In travel, in being elsewhere, there is potential, an unknown quantity, a promise of something that has yet to be defined. Even if we know that we are ultimately creatures of habit, destined to fall back into our daily rituals and routines, perhaps it is still comforting to think that there is the possibility that a better self might exist elsewhere, is lurking out there…if only we can find it.

Gee whiz, another heavy one. Sorry to go all existential crisis on you. Like I said, the cogs don’t stop turning!

In case you missed it, I returned to Tokyo for a brief week to meet up with one of my besties and to visit the Yayoi Kusama Museum, which was a whole lot of fun. Tokyo is one of my favourite cities, and I could return time and time again and never get bored. Due to a typhoon, there was incessant rain the entire time, except for the last day. Go figure. Despite the gloomy skies, I still had a brilliant time, although I’m a little bit bummed that I somehow managed to lose my Sailor Jupiter pin that I bought in Akihabara

RELATED POST:

• Polka dots and pumpkins: visiting the Yayoi Kusama Museum

Oh, I’ve booked flights back home to Perth! I’ll be heading back on 14 December and I absolutely can’t wait! Because I can see the finish line in sight, I’m getting particularly antsy to get back home again, which is something I’d never thought I’d say The last couple of months, I’ve fluctuated between feeling ready to come home, but also wanting to make the most of my time away, so navigating these two opposing states of mind has been a topsy-turvy roller-coaster–I’ll touch on this in my next and final post for the Phnom Penh series!

Cammi x

The post The Phnom Penh files: October recap appeared first on curated by cammi.

I first became mesmerised with Yayoi Kusama’s famous pumpkin installations during my first trip to Japan on Naoshima Island, and I’ve also seen her work at the MOMA in New York. I’ve seen many an Instagram picture of her spell-binding infinity rooms, so when I heard that the Yayoi Kusama Museum was opening in Tokyo for a limited period (it runs until 25 February 2018), there was no better reason to return to one of my all-time favourite cities.

RELATED POSTS:

• 48 hours on Naoshima Island
• Staying at the Benesse House on Naoshima Island

On a cool October morning, we made our way to the Yayoi Kusama Museum. The building itself is inconspicuous, minimalist and unnotable except for the trademark swirling pattern of white dots sprayed across the glass panels. It’s bizarre how much joy polka dots can inject in a person, but I suppose that’s the very reason why we are here: time to get dotty.

We are led into the lobby by attendants and quickly briefed: we have 1.5 hours to explore (tickets are timed entry), the first two floors are artworks and no photography is allowed, the third floor has an infinity room and the top floor a reading space and new installation created specifically for the museum. The excitement in the room is palpable and you can see everyone’s mind ticking over: should they view the floors in order; should they start from the top–down; would 1.5 hours be enough? It turns out 1.5 hours was more than enough time, as the building is quite small despite taking up 4 floors.

Up we went. The first floor is lined with white-and-black paintings from the ‘Love Forever’ collection. Repetition is evident in Yayoi’s sculptures and installations. It can also be seen in her paintings, and in particular this series, in which silhouettes of faces, lines and dots are duplicated. There is a membranous and nucleate quality that brings the work to life; the effect is such that the lines seem to jump out at you, such is the depth of the work. On first glance, it may seem simple, but up close the details and the precision are obvious. There is purpose behind every line, every concentrated area of ink, every sparse corner.

The second floor houses new paintings from Yayoi Kusuma’s ‘My Eternal Soul’ series. These artworks are more eclectic, spontaneous, and lacking the exactness of the paintings from the ‘Love Forever’ collection. Brighter colours are used, and the works are messier, more child-like. Some works even resemble the Australian Indigenous dot paintings, albeit fashioned in more colourful hues than the earthy tones of traditional Aboriginal art. Although I found these works less visually appealing, I felt that they told more of a story and perhaps provided a deeper glimpse into the world of the artist.

On the third floor, there was the pumpkin infinity room. It was a small room and groups were given only 90 seconds to spend in the room. We were lucky to have only 2 other visitors go in at the same time as us, which gave us all a good opportunity to take photos of the luminescent pumpkins. Honestly, I could have stood in the room for an hour watching the glass pumpkins light up, bit by bit, before reaching their full crescendo.

On the last floor, there is a reading room of books about Yayoi Kusama’s art and a new pumpkin installation created especially for the Yayoi Kusama Museum. The pumpkin is kept inside an uncovered courtyard, a glittering ball of gold and pink mosaiced tiles in stark contrast to the minimalist white walls and grey skies surrounding it.

By this stage, we realised that it had only taken us about 30 minutes to go through the entire exhibition. However, we didn’t leave without taking selfies in the polka-dotted elevator and bathroom, and picking up a Yayoi-printed scarf from the gift shop. (The pumpkin clutch purse was cute, but the hefty price tag was not so much.)

Although the Yayoi Kusama Museum was quite compact, it was still a spectacular experience to be able to see her work in her home country. Her range as an artist is apparent, from her installations to her paintings, and I’m glad that I was able to see some of her paintings in person. Yayoi forever!

YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY…

An overnight stay in a Japanese temple in Koyasan

A quick guide to the neighbourhoods of Tokyo

Kurama Fire Festival: my introduction to a Japanese festival

My top 10 Penang street art murals and where to find them

Are you a curious wayfarer too? Why not follow Curated by Cammi’s adventures on Instagram!

LIKE THIS POST? PIN IT FOR LATER!

The post Polka dots and pumpkins: visiting the Yayoi Kusama Museum appeared first on curated by cammi.

September was a whirlwind month. I had 2 sets of friends come to visit, as well as the hubby, which meant that I got to play the role of Phnom Penh tour guide – a tour that essentially involved eating and drinking. It’s difficult to extol the virtues of Phnom Penh. It is by no means an attractive city, with its lack of green spaces, its lingering pollution that seems to immediately attach itself to you as soon as you walk outside (you should see my facial wipes at the end of the day), pothole-ridden roads and rubbish littering the streets. There’s not much to see in terms of tourist attractions, with the two main attractions – the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng prison – being significant but not necessarily enjoyable outings. If you follow the Lonely Planet itinerary, there is also the Royal Palace, National Museum and the various markets, but if we’re being completely honest, you’re likely to have visited far more impressive palaces, museums and markets (although I do love the Russian market) elsewhere in South-East Asia. With a lack of a ‘highlights package’ to present, my plan was essentially to ply my friends with food and drinks, which seemed a sufficient strategy.

RELATED POST:

• A quick guide to Phnom Penh

This is the problem with travelling to a place for a short period of time. You build your impressions within a limited timeframe, which are often based around visual cues, such as scenery or architecture, and experiences, such as activities or interactions. Phnom Penh doesn’t offer anything that immediately grabs your attention and draws you in. It doesn’t make your jaw drop or elicit any ‘wows’. In essence, it seems like just another South-East city, although lacking a clear differentiating factor. On first glance, there doesn’t seem to be a lot going for Phnom Penh, which is why a lot of people tend to dismiss the capital city in favour of the far more impressive and sprawling temple complexes of Siem Reap and the idyllic beaches of the islands off Cambodia’s coast – which is fair enough.

Phnom Penh isn’t built for tourists exploring the city for a day or two, it’s made for those who are willing to give the city a chance and put in the time to get to know its core. It’s built for the expat or long-term traveller, because people don’t stay here for the beautiful scenery or attractions, they stay for the community. Phnom Penh offers a lifestyle that can be intoxicatingly addictive, which is what I was so attracted to during my first visit to the city. It’s the undercurrent of energy running through the rubbish-littered streets that you wouldn’t necessarily be privy to unless you were staying for an extended period of time.

By the same token, it’s also a city that starts to wear you down after a while, precisely through the things aforementioned: its lack of green spaces, its lingering pollution, the rubbish littering the streets. I’ve been dreaming about the beaches back in Perth and the sprawling green park across from my house. Additionally, similar to drugs, the novelty of the intoxicatingly addictive lifestyle starts to wear off after a you’ve gone through your experimental phase. Alternatively, some people fall into the trappings of the hedonistic lifestyle that Phnom Penh offers, spiralling out of control and unable to manage their addictions. There’s certainly no shortage of unsavoury characters / alcoholics in the city.

A friend who arrived in Phnom Penh around the same time as I did received an offer from her workplace to have her contract extended for another year; however, she doesn’t know if she’ll take it because in her words: ‘I am so over Phnom Penh’. I can relate. I think I’m at that same stage – not in the sense that I’ve over the city, but everything has become so ‘familiar’. Ah, the dreaded word: familiarity. How does a word have such positive and negative connotations at the same time? We yearn for familiarity, for the comfort of home, the embrace of our significant other and for the park across the road, but yet at the same time we ultimately become bored and unstimulated by what ends up becoming familiar. This becomes a conundrum in that we are driven to chase the unknown but longing for familiarity at the same time – how do we negotiate such opposing forces to create a situation that works in the long term? Okay, sorry to get deep, guys. This is just a stream of consciousness, so I go where my thoughts go.

In other news, I visited Sri Lanka, which was my first foray into South Asia. I travelled around the hill country from Kandy to Ella by train. Guys, if you haven’t been to Sri Lanka, please, please, please go, or at least put it on the list! This has undoubtedly been my favourite trip taken so far during my South-East Asian stint and I became completely smitten with the country and its people. I can’t wait to get more posts up about my time there (although who knows when this is going to happen? Time, why are you so cruel to me?!!).

RELATED POST:

• Travelling alone in Sri Lanka as a woman: is it safe?

I also need to start thinking about my return back to Oz. The hubby and I will be in Melbourne for Christmas, but I’d like to spend at least a week in Perth beforehand – there’s a park I need to reacquaint myself with.

Cammi x

The post The Phnom Penh files: September recap appeared first on curated by cammi.

However, I was nervous about travelling alone in Sri Lanka, as I wasn’t sure how the whole ‘solo female traveller’ thing would go down. Would I be safe travelling alone in Sri Lanka…as a woman? Would I constantly be harassed? Stared at? Followed? Or God forbid, would I inexplicably find myself in an unpleasant situation?

After spending only one brief but utterly extraordinary week in Sri Lanka, I can say that I never once felt intimidated, frightened or concerned for my safety. In fact, I was completely blown away by the hospitality of the locals, who emanate such a refined warmth. Women in their colourful saris (if only I had that much style!) and men in their traditional sarongs would share a friendly smile or greeting as they walked past, and I found that people would go out of their way to assist me (directions are not a strong point of mine). It sounds strange but I actually felt safer in Sri Lanka than I do in Phnom Penh, where I am kept constantly on my toes due to the high rate of petty crime.

It was interesting to note that in all the guesthouses that I stayed at, the employees all seemed to be male. This was never an issue, but it was certainly noticeable, and I could certainly understand how this might potentially be daunting as a solo female traveller. Even though I personally didn’t encounter any issues travelling alone in Sri Lanka, every situation is different and travellers should always have their wits about them, particularly when travelling solo.

Did I get hassled?

Yes and no. Yes, in the sense that I was approached by men who were keen to strike up a conversation. I wasn’t opposed to engaging in some polite conversation, but if I wanted to move on, there was no aggression towards me or persistence to continue the conversation. Men would also call out on the street and say hi, but I saw this as more curiosity rather than blatant leering. I had some teenage boys approach me to ask if they could take a photo of me (I declined but I appreciate that they asked in the first instance) and someone asked if they could add me on Facebook (ermmm let me think about it…no). So, yes, there were times when I got attention that I wouldn’t usually receive back home, but there was never a time when I felt uncomfortable or not in control of a situation.

Is it okay to show some skin?

I made a conscious effort to dress more conservatively while travelling around Sri Lanka, despite the relentless heat. I wore loose linen pants, long dresses and carried a scarf around with me to use as a shawl. That’s not to say that there weren’t plenty of tourists in shorts and strappy tank tops, but I wanted to avoid any kind of unnecessary attention. The choice is yours; however, an effort should be made to dress appropriately at religious sites.

Is it safe to venture out at night?

My routine in Sri Lanka was to wake up early, head out and get through my list of planned activities and then return to my guesthouse following dinner to do work. I didn’t want to risk navigating the potential dangers that emerge once the sun sets and shadows take precedence, particularly in a foreign country all on my lonesome. Furthermore, I spent most of my time in the hill country in Kandy and Ella, which didn’t really have much of a ‘night scene’ anyway.

The one time that I did feel a bit uneasy was while walking home at night along Kandy Lake after a visit to the Temple of the Tooth. I didn’t take a tuk tuk, as it was a relatively short walk back to the guesthouse and I had assumed that the lake would be well lit…it wasn’t. If not for the lights from oncoming traffic, then it would have virtually been pitch black. I made it back to the guesthouse without any problems, but the next night I made sure to catch a tuk tuk when returning to the guesthouse.

Is public transport safe?

I had read articles advising women not to travel alone in a tuk tuk at night and I heeded that advice. However, I had no issues at all travelling in tuk tuks during the day—make sure to get a metered tuk tuk in Colombo (I couldn’t find metered tuk tuks in Kandy and Ella) or negotiate the price beforehand. The standard rate is LKR$0.40/km, which works out to be approximately AU$0.32 per kilometre. It’s useful to have a measure of far you’ll be travelling if getting into a tuk tuk without a meter, so that you can have a rough idea of how much you should be paying. I also had my Google offline maps on all the time, so that I could keep tabs on where the tuk tuk was taking me.

I took the train from Colombo to Kandy and then from Kandy to Ella. Train travel is easy and super cheap in Sri Lanka and probably the best way to see the country. Train seats can be reserved in advance for first-class or second-class carriages, or you also purchase unreserved tickets on the day for the third-class carriage (a number of unreserved tickets can also be purchased for the first-class or second-class carriages on a first-come, first-served basis).

I also booked a car to take me from Ella back to Colombo. It was a long and winding 6-hour drive, but the views and scenery along the way were some of the best I had seen on the trip. I was nervous being alone in a car with a stranger for such a long duration, but my driver was extremely courteous and professional (I used the company Sri Lanka Exclusive Tours, who were also quite competitive on price).

Were there many other solo female travellers?

To be honest, I didn’t run into many other female solo travellers or solo travellers in general. There were lots of couples (Sri Lanka is such a romantic place!), families and groups of friends. However, this doesn’t mean that Sri Lanka isn’t a great place for solo travel!

Other advice?

In terms of practicalities, I would recommend getting a mobile sim card at the airport, as it is cheap to purchase and having data will be incredibly handy. Send your itinerary to someone trusted back at home and have a contact person to check in with on a daily basis. I also spent more on accommodation in order to stay in a central location to avoid getting lost in dark alleyways at the edge of town when finding my way back to the guesthouse.

More importantly, greet everyone with a smile if they do approach you or say hi. It’s ingrained in us to assume that everyone who falls outside of our circle of familiarity has bad intentions or ulterior motives, but for the most part, I found that people genuinely wanted to have a chat and to know what I thought about Sri Lanka (in short, I fell truly, madly, deeply in love with the country). Be polite and respectful; however, that being said, (women’s) intuition is everything and you shouldn’t hesitate in sounding the alarm if you do get that gut feeling.

YOU MIGHT ALSO ENJOY…

Solo travel in a relationship: what it’s like travelling without your partner

The best places to travel alone (when you’re in a relationship)

The Kandy to Ella train journey through Sri Lanka’s hill country

Are you a curious wayfarer too? Why not follow Curated by Cammi’s adventures on Instagram!

LIKE THIS POST? PIN IT FOR LATER!

The post Travelling alone in Sri Lanka as a woman: is it safe? appeared first on curated by cammi.

The halfway mark already! How time flies. The first couple of weeks of August found me stressed and sleep-deprived, as I worked manically to finish off a freelance project before whisking off to Penang to reunite with the hubby for his birthday. It’s a bit of a contradiction because I don’t thrive well under pressure, but at the same time I don’t feel as motivated as when I’m facing a tight deadline. As the hubby says, I work best within a very specific set of conditions.

It had been 10 weeks since I last saw the hubby—the longest we’ve ever been apart—and so the anticipation of being together again was high. We spent a glorious 4 days in Penang and 3 days in Langkawi, which was a perfect combination of food and culture (Penang) and relaxation and island life (Langkawi). UNESCO heritage-listed George Town had been on my must-visit list for a while due to its renowned street food and street art scenes, and it didn’t disappoint in either respect.

RELATED POSTS:

• Sampling the best of Penang’s food scene with Urban Adventures
• My top 10 Penang street art murals and where to find them

It was interesting because I found that I needed time to become accustomed to being part of a couple again. I suppose in being apart, you get used to being on your own and operating as a lone wolf, so it can be an adjustment having to consider someone else’s opinions again. Similarly, when I returned to Phnom Penh after a week in Penang, I found myself having to do the reverse in reverting back to my single mentality. The most difficult time for me was my first week in Phnom Penh after the hubby left, and, at the time, I thought it was because the magnitude of the 6 months ahead had suddenly hit me. However, looking back, I think it may have just been a readjustment period—negotiating the transition from coupledom to (faux) singledom. I experienced these same emotions again following Penang, but on a much lesser scale, presumably because this time around I had an established routine to fall back into.

As to movements around town, a friend and I started a film and book club, and we held the first film screening of Pulp Fiction a few weeks ago—the book club is coming up soon, where we’ll be discussing the classic novel The Lord of the Flies. I am a notorious book club starter/joiner, and usually not very successful in either respect, so we’ll see how the first meeting goes.

The other day, I got annoyed over paying a tuk tuk driver 50 cents more than the trip was actually worth. I’m fully aware how petty it sounds to be haggling over 50 cents when I’m jetting off on international trips every month and eating extravagant brunches and drinking fancy cocktails on a semi-regular basis. However, my feeling annoyed got me thinking a lot about privilege and how my privileges are evidently so engrained that I believe that tuk tuk drivers should be thankful for what they’re given. I know, I’m a terrible human being and I feel awful even writing this, but I do think that it is part of the human condition to feel indignant if we think we’re being taken advantage of. Some argue that it does become more of a legitimate issue for expats if it happens time and time again, as opposed to being a tourist visiting the city for a couple of days. However, I think it points more to the fact that we carry our privileges around with us regardless of where we go—privileges that we have acquired essentially through the luck of the draw and nothing more.

A friend asked me about Penang and how it was seeing the hubby again. After giving a general run-down of the trip, she then asked, ‘Is being here worth it?’ I can’t remember what I said exactly but it was something along the lines of how it would be better to have the hubby here and it’s not the ideal situation as I’d prefer to experience this as a couple. However, what I should have said was a definitive ‘yes’—a thousand times yes! Even if something is not your ideal situation, it’s not to say that it isn’t the right situation, and sometimes you just have to trust that you are on the right path even if you have no idea where it’s leading.

I can’t explain the importance of me having this experience, except that I know that I would be utterly disappointed in myself if I didn’t take this opportunity and make the most of it, especially when I’m in such a privileged position—and there we have it again…privilege.

It’s a tricky thing, privilege. It can make us feel guilty when we recognise the privileges that we possess, and at the same time it can open up a wide array of opportunities that perhaps at the end of the day we may not really deserve. Should we condemn our privileges or embrace them? I wish I had the answers but this still remains a riddle, wrapped in a mystery, inside an enigma.

Cammi x

The post The Phnom Penh files: August recap appeared first on curated by cammi.